| Food
Critic Sara
Kennedy
Owned for two years by Patrick and Dawn Pendola, The Whistle
Stop holds a special place in the hearts of those who grew
up in
Safety Harbor. It was known for more than 30 years as The
Frosty Harbor and retains its ice cream parlor retro charm.
Some even organized a "Frosty Harbor" reunion
recently to share their memories.
"It's been here
forever, like a landmark, almost," explained Dawn Pendola.
"I was happy to buy it from the original owners."
A wildly painted fake
cow stands guard over the premises, advertising great ice
cream. And in fact, the Whistle Stop's current extensive
selection of frozen treats has continued what, by all accounts,
was The Frosty Harbor's long tradition of primo malts and
thick shakes, fresh waffle cones and gooey sundaes.
Read More....
OKay,
so this may not be the original Whistle Stop Cafe you saw
in the film by the same name, but it may as well be. For
a start, even the Whistle Stop around which the touching
Fannie Flagg story revolves can be readily disputed: do
you mean the cafe in Juliette, Georgia, that you actually
saw in the movie and which, only after the film, decided
to become a cafe and call itself 'The Original Whistle Stop
Cafe' (before the film the building hosted a progression
of shops including an antique shop, a real estate office
before that, and others down, the years); or do you mean
the place in Alabama, called the Irondale Cafe, once owned
by Ms. Flagg's great Aunt Bess and the eatery which Fannie
had in mind when she created the central location for her
acclaimed book? As far as I'm concerned, our Whistle Stop
is the real McCoy. Nestled beside the railroad tracks on
Main Street, Safety Harbor, for many the cozy, unimposing
restaurant has been known as the Whistle Stop for as long
as they can remember.
I understand that the cafe was first established as far
back as the late forties/early fifties, and started life
as an ice cream parlor and burger bar. If you sit to the
rear of the restaurant today, you can see a wonderful relic
of this easier, nostalgic era by way of an original 1950s
outdoor table and integral seat set, which present owners
Dawn and Patrick Pendola assure me will remain as long as
they do. Their appreciation of the past makes me happy,
and is in fact what first drew me to the Whistle
Stop over a year ago ... and continues to draw me. Downtown
Safety Harbor, home to the whistle Stop, couldn't be a more
suitable host for the retro-contemporary restaurant which
one customer described as '...old Florida style with modern
delicious ..... The town is a living reminiscence of a bygone
era - a gentler time and place where people still walk the
sidewalks to get where they are going, quaint locally-owned
shops line Main Street, and you can (usually quite easily)
park your car in front of any store for free. The Whistle
Stop Grill is every bit in keeping with this warm and personal
theme.
The building itself remains much the same as it was more
than 50 years ago, with simple block construction, angled
frontage, and sliding hatch windows. Interesting 'relics'
and antiquities adorn the Whistle Stop's exterior walls:
a pair of painted screen doors announcing the cafe's name;
traditional chalk boards informing of coming musical treats
or special menus; wooden signs, old glass bottles and enamelled
cast iron cookware to name a few which make you feel as
though you've stepped back to the Old South. The ever-dynamic
menu is exciting in its contemporary twist to traditional
southern down-home cooking'. Southern Cooking with Kick,
is what we termed it when first talking with the Whistle
Stop some time ago. And southern cooking it is - on our
visit we started with the homemade smoked mullet spread,
which was phenomenal. While a home
grown Whistle Stop recipe, it reminded me of a recipe my
wife picked up from a southern fair cookbook circa 1930.
The Four Season Salad’s was a treat, and a regular
diner told me that served with apple, it won't be beaten
anywhere in the Bay area. Of course we would have been crazy
had we not sampled the fried green tomatoes ... and it has
to be said that I wish I'd been in a position to stop right
there. A first-timer to this dish, I could easily have made
my meal out of these sharp, rich treats so perfectly representing
all that southern cooking can be.
Then came the fried dill pickle slices. Yes - fried pickles!
Some of you may have heard of this one before ... many will
have not. Apparently a customer once asked for this unusual
dish and Dawn Pendola acceded - adding her own touch in
the process, needless to say. The result being that I'd
come here just to try this one. Honestly - if you like pickles,
you'll smile. Our entrees were Lime Basil Catfish and Portobella
Mushroom Wraps. I'm not super-keen on wraps, so to me the
mushroom was okay (while being a top vegetarian offering)
but the catfish was dynamite. In keeping with their new
"r menu with table service, beer and wine license,
and live music on weekends, this dish will undoubtedly help
put the Whistle Stop on every Bay area diner's map. I'm
now anticipating the sequel film.- Lime Basil Catfish' and
the Whistle Stop Grill. Come experience it all first hand.
Today. Casual attire, good food and fine friends. What more
is there to a perfect southern evening.
St.
Petersburg Times
CHRIS SHERMAN
Given the artsy impulses of this town, its easy to overlook
the cow statue in front of the Whistle Stop, which is painted
with Keith Haring splotches of hot pink, metro turquoise
and much-too-red. Big deal the colors that grab your attention
are whitewash white and general store green. You know those
colors, the ones that show off an accent of Coca-Cola red
so well They're the iconic colors of tiny town commerce
across the South, where sundries, hamburger joints and other
country businesses operated in the shade of old oaks just
outside the dust of the crossroads. 'The Whistle Stop is
from that pre-gallery, pre-condo era of Safety Harbor. If
you grew up here - and plenty of people did,
including Dan Brown, who plays guitar on Sunday nights and
worked the fountain 40 years ago - this was Frosty Harbor.
'For almost a half-century it was a place where teens got
smug and grown-ups felt snug, refreshed by cold sodas and
warm friend ships. If you didn't you may have heard of the
Whistle Stop and its fried green 'tomatoes, as Dawn Pendola
fashioned the place in homage to author Fannie Flagg. Pendola
took over the old root beer stand in 1995 The fried green
tomatoes are still here, as a side, fancied up with cilantro
and crumbles of goat cheese, or on burgers and BLFGTs. But
they're not half of the changes Pendola and husband, Patrick,
have installed. There's a tuna caesar salad and wraps of
portobello, turkey, catfish and veggie, but most of the
additions show more imagination. How about crackling calamari
salad with calamari flash-fried and tossed with field greens
in a tangerine mustard dressing? Don't imagine anyone tried
to sell the James Dean crowd on fried squid with a frosty
mug, which may be why nowadays the Whistle Stop has a wine
List It's short but at the top end, $5 buys a glass of Robert
Pepi sauvignon blanc or Hess Select cabernet two of my favorite
bargains. Catfish get dolled up as an entree, grilled with
lime and herbs (menu says basil oil; on my visit cilantro
leaves), greens and basmati rice.
A veggie burger comes with aioli - garlic Mayo to you, bud.
Most of the tweaking is done on the old-fashioned side.
Like fried dill pickles. Yep, pickle chips in a hard cornmeal
crust that packs grease and sour pickle together. You shouldn't
eat many, but one or two is fun. I Hot dogs get the slash-and-
almost-burn treatment I like on the grill. Baked beans are
homemade with ground beef (I'd punch them up with vinegar
or hot sauce). Order a chocolate milkshake and you get whipped
cream and jimmies on top. In tribute to Pendola's Jersey
roots, French fries can be ordered with chili, cheese or
brown diner gravy. The gravy's the kind that was the best
part of a hot roast beef sandwich; The Whistle Stop also
carries a few local goods. The fish spread mixes cream cheese
and mullet smoked in town More important the hard ice cream
comes from Working Cow, made less than 10 miles away. It
doesn't always work- The grilled cumin chicken breast isn't
very spicy, and the hamburgers made of a third of a pound
of sirloin. But if you come here often - and you would if
you could - you find your favorites, maybe a soft- serve
Florida Avalanche. Stick with them for the sheer pleasure
of a place that's been part of a town for 50 years. Parents
wheel toddlers by on evening walks, dieters escaping from
the spa hike down Main Street little Leaguers celebrate
and commiserate. Plus you get to sit under the tree waiting
for nothing more exciting than a freight train. Or an indulgent
owner rewarding Bowser with some dog- friendly vanilla.
That's what summer nights are for. And Safety Harbor can
have them all year long.
The Tampa
Tribune
The restaurant, nestled alongside the railroad tracks, is
an open-air eating establishment offering walk-up window
service for ice cream and table service for diners. "You
get that old Florida feeling with contemporary, delicious
food," said patron-Lois Miller. "I just think
it is a very special place in Safety Har- bor." Owners
Dawn and Patrick Pendola put more than $50,000 into the
restaurant when they bought it 19 months ago. The improvements
have made the Whistle Stop Grill a hot spot for local residents.
The Main Street institution usually is packed on weekends
with patrons enjoying live jazz or blues while they eat
and drink $1 drafts. The Pendolas put in a deck, a canopy
and picnic tables with tablecloths and umbrellas. They added
nicer tables and chairs for full-service, diners, new floors,
plants, foodservice equipment and an exterior point job.
More improvements are planned, including a larger bar area
and more shaded dining areas. The renovations have turned
the place into a full-service restaurant with a creative
menu that has expanded beyond the business's historic hot
dog-and-hamburger roots. "It used to be a place I thought
of just as an ice cream shop, WHERE. 915 Main St., Safety
Harbor Major credit-debit cards accepted; children's menu
(10 and younger): beer and wine served; live music Saturday
and Sunday evenings, table service or walkup service available
HOURS. 11 am. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m.
to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday CALL- (727) 726-1956 all
the time and eat. It's a place you want to sit down and
enjoy." |